Mushroom leather is a sustainable and environmentally friendly material cultivated from the mycelium of fungi (the root-like structure of mushrooms) through biotechnology, representing a major breakthrough in the green development of the fashion industry. The application of mushroom leather materials in the production of bags represents an important step in the transformation of the fashion industry towards sustainable development.
Mushroom leather has already been applied by some well-known brands to make bags, such as Hermes. Although it still faces some technical and cost challenges at present, its environmental advantages, animal-friendly features and continuously improving performance make it an ideal choice for future bag production.
This post will explore the advantages and disadvantages of mushroom leather and whether it is suitable for making bags.
What is mushroom leather?
Mushroom leather, also known as mycelium leather, is an innovative material, which is a bio-based material made from the structure of mushroom roots. As a sustainable vegetarian alternative to traditional animal leather, it is becoming increasingly popular.
What is mycelium?
The mycelium is the nutritional (root-like) structure of fungi, composed of tiny branched lines called hyphae.
It grows underground or in substrates (such as wood chips, agricultural waste or sawdust and other organic materials), decomposing organic matter and absorbing nutrients.
Unlike the visible mushroom cap (fruiting body), the mycelium is the hidden fibrous part that forms the basis for the growth of fungi.
The key characteristics of mushroom leather
- Light weight: 30% lighter than traditional leather.
- Waterproof: Due to its cellular structure, it naturally repels liquids.
- Environmental protection: Uses less water, grows fast, and is biodegradable (depending on treatment).
- Durable: It can withstand frequent use while maintaining its shape.
- Flexible: Mimics the flexibility of leather, while customizable in thickness and texture.
- Biodegradable: Decomposes naturally without any harmful residues.
- Antimicrobial: Resistant to mold and mildew.
- Zero cruelty: No animal products.
- Versatile: It can be as soft as suede or as strong as traditional leather.
- Low-impact manufacturing: It can be grown in a controlled indoor environment with minimal waste.
What is mushroom leather made of?
Although it is called mushroom leather, mushroom leather is not made from the mushroom caps you can find in grocery stores. It is produced by mycelium, which is a dense network of fibrous roots of fungi.
- Production process: This process first feeds the mycelium in a controlled environment with organic materials such as agricultural waste (like sawdust, straw or corn husks). As the mycelium grows, it forms a dense mat structure. Then, this cushion is harvested, processed and tanned to create a material that looks and feels very similar to animal leather.
- Closer to animals: Interestingly, fungi are genetically closer to animals than to plants. This biological similarity is part of the reason why mycelial leather can be so close to the characteristics of animal leather.
Why is mushroom leather popular?
- Moral demand: Consistent with vegetarianism and a cruelty-free lifestyle.
- Environmental issues: Addressed the pollution and resource intensity of traditional leather and synthetic alternatives (such as PU leather, which is petroleum-based).
- Innovation: Attracting fashion brands and consumers to seek cutting-edge and sustainable materials.
- Circular economy: Supports a closed-loop system in which waste is reused into valuable products.
How is mushroom leather used?
Mushroom leather has been used by many brands to produce fashionable and practical products. You can find it below
- Handbags and wallets: Luxury brands and niche brands are making accessories with mushroom leather. For instance, hermes collaborated with MycoWorks to develop a bag based on mycelium.
- Footwear: Companies such as Lululemon, Adidas and Allbirds are developing shoes using Mylo (a kind of mushroom leather produced by Bolt Threads).
- Other accessories: It can also be used for small items, such as watch straps, and even for car interiors.
Mushroom Leather vs. Animal Leather
The table below summarizes some key differences:
| Feature | Mushroom Leather | Animal Leather |
| Source | Mycelium (fungus) | Animal hides |
| Environmental Impact | Lower resource use, biodegradable | High resource use (water, land), chemical pollution from tanning |
| Production Time | Several weeks | Several years (to raise the animal) |
| Ethics | Vegan, cruelty-free | Uses animal products |
| End-of-Life | Can be composted (depending on finishing) | Biodegradable only if naturally tanned |
| Durability | Good and improving; long-term data still being established | Proven, high durability over decades |
The challenges and future of mushroom leather
- Scalability: The current production methods are still small-scale, but advancements in 3D molding and automation can enable large-scale production.
- Cost: Currently, it is more expensive than traditional leather, but as demand grows, the price may drop.
- Durability: Some earlier versions may wear faster than animal leather, but research is extending their lifespan.
Pros and cons of mushroom leather
Mushroom leather, made from fungal mycelium, is attracting attention as a sustainable alternative to traditional animal leather and artificial leather. The following is a detailed analysis of its advantages and disadvantages.
Pros of mushroom leather
Mushroom leather, derived from the mycelium (root-like structure) of fungi, is becoming a sustainable and ethical alternative to traditional animal leather and synthetic leather. The following are its main advantages, highlighting its environmental, ethical and functional benefits:
1. Environmental sustainability
- Low carbon footprint: The mycelium grows rapidly (in weeks instead of years as in cattle), reducing greenhouse gas emissions related to livestock farming. Compared with the production of animal leather, it requires the least water, land and energy.
- Reduce waste: Utilize agricultural by-products (such as corn stalks, sawdust, and rice husks) as substrates to transfer waste from landfills. Support the circular economy by transforming low-value materials into high-value products.
- Biodegradability: Unlike artificial leather (PU/PVC), artificial leather causes microplastic pollution and naturally decomposes at the end of its life cycle.
2. Moral and cruelty-free production
- No animal harm: Eliminates the need to raise and slaughter animals, addressing ethical issues in the fashion industry. It has avoided problems such as deforestation caused by grazing or pollution from tanneries.
- Vegetarian-friendly: Attracting consumers to seek plant-based or animal-based alternatives without compromising style.
3. Versatility and customization
- Animal-like leather: Achieve textures ranging from smooth and polished to pebble or suede-like. It can be dyed in various colors and treated for water resistance or durability.
- 3D forming capability: Mycelium can grow into specific shapes (for example, shoes, bags or car interiors), reducing the waste of cut patterns.
- Cross-industry applications: For fashion (jackets, handbags), accessories (wallets, belts), automotive interiors and furniture.
4. Functional performance
- Lightweight and breathable: Ideal for clothing and footwear, offering comfort without the heaviness of traditional leather.
- Low allergen: Compared with animal leather that may contain tannins or chemicals, it is less likely to cause allergic reactions.
- Waterproof options: Some formulas are naturally waterproof, or can be treated to be moisture-proof to extend the lifespan.
5. Innovation and Market Attractiveness
- Support sustainable brands: Align with the enterprise’s sustainable development goals and help the enterprise reduce its environmental impact.
- Consumer demand: Call on environmentally conscious shoppers to give priority to ethical and low-waste products.
- Cutting-edge technology: It represents a forward-looking approach to materials science and drives innovation in biodegradable textiles.
6. Economic potential
- Sustainable industries create job opportunities: offering opportunities in biotechnology, agriculture and green manufacturing.
- Reduce reliance on animal husbandry: Diversify material sources to alleviate the pressure on animal husbandry and the environmental damage it causes.
Summary of key pros of mushroom leather
| Category | Benefits |
| Environmental | Low carbon footprint, waste reduction, biodegradability. |
| Ethical | Cruelty-free, vegan-friendly, avoids deforestation/pollution. |
| Functional | Lightweight, breathable, hypoallergenic, water-resistant options. |
| Innovative | Customizable textures, 3D molding, multi-industry applications. |
| Economic | Supports green jobs, reduces reliance on animal agriculture. |
Cons of mushroom leather
Although mushroom leather is environmentally friendly and innovative, it still has some drawbacks that limit its wide application at present, including durability and performance issues, high production costs, scalability challenges, limited biodegradability in some cases, market recognition barriers, and limited availability.
1. Durability and performance issues
- Wear and tear: Mushroom leather may be more prone to scratches, tears or fading than traditional animal leather, especially with frequent use. This limits its applicability in high-pressure applications such as automotive interiors or heavy footwear.
- Water resistance: While some formulas are waterproof, others may easily absorb moisture, leading to swelling or deformation. This makes it less suitable for outdoor gear or rainy climates.
- Heat resistance: It may not be able to withstand high temperatures and animal leather, limiting its use in certain industrial or automotive applications.
- Color stability: The dyes used on mushroom leather may fade or bleed over time, affecting its aesthetic appeal.
2. High production cost
- Small-scale production: Currently, compared with traditional leather, the production volume of mushroom leather is relatively small, resulting in a higher unit cost.
- Specialized techniques: The cultivation and processing of mycelium require specialized equipment and professional knowledge, which further increases costs.
- Economic feasibility: Despite the investment (for example, Bolt Threads raised 300 million US dollars), the high cost makes it difficult to achieve large-scale profitability. For example, due to a shortage of funds, Bolt Threads suspended the production of Mylo materials.
3. Scalability challenges
- Growth conditions: Mycelium requires specific temperature, humidity and substrate conditions to grow. Any deviation will affect the quality and output.
- Supply chain: Relying on agricultural waste (such as corn stalks and sawdust) as the base material may face logistics obstacles, such as inconsistent availability or quality.
- Production time: Although the cultivation of mycelium is faster than raising livestock, it still takes several weeks, and expanding production without affecting quality is complex.
4. Limited biodegradability (in some cases)
- Additives and treatments: Some mushroom leather products may contain synthetic coatings or dyes, which reduce their biodegradability and undermine their environmental benefits.
- Partial degradation: Not all mushroom leathers are completely biodegradable, especially if mixed with other materials to enhance durability.
5. Market perception and consumer skepticism
- Durability issue: Compared with traditional leather, consumers may consider mushroom leather to be less durable or luxurious, thereby influencing their purchasing decisions.
- The appeal of luxury goods: High-end brands may hesitate to use mushroom leather because they are worried about maintaining their high-end image.
- Competition: Mushroom leather is facing competition from other sustainable alternatives such as pineapple leather (Pinatex), cactus leather or recycled plastic, which may be more mature or cost-effective.
6. Limited availability
- Niche market: Mushroom leeather remains a niche product, and there are fewer brands offering mushroom leather compared to traditional leather.
- Geographical limitations: Production may be concentrated in certain regions, restricting global accessibility.
- Product range: Although it is used in fashion (such as handbags, shoes) and accessories, its application is still expanding and may not be applicable to all product categories.
Summary of key cons of mushroom leather
| Category of Drawbacks | Specific Description |
| Insufficient Durability | Compared to traditional animal leather, mushroom leather exhibits weaker resistance to abrasion, tearing, and puncturing, making it prone to wear or damage in high-stress scenarios such as automotive interiors or heavy-duty luggage. |
| Poor Water Resistance | Some mushroom leather products are highly absorbent, prone to swelling or deformation when exposed to water, limiting their use in humid environments or outdoor applications. |
| Low Color Stability | Over time or with prolonged sun exposure, dyes in mushroom leather may fade or migrate, compromising aesthetic appeal and making repairs difficult. |
| Limited Production Scale | Current production technologies for mushroom leather are not fully mature, with challenges such as long mycelium cultivation cycles, complex processes, and high costs, resulting in limited market supply and elevated prices. |
| Inconsistent Performance | Due to significant sensitivity to environmental conditions (e.g., temperature, humidity, substrate composition) during mycelium growth, physical properties (e.g., thickness, density, flexibility) may vary across batches, affecting product quality consistency. |
| Restricted Application Scenarios | Limited by durability and water resistance, mushroom leather is primarily used in low-stress fashion accessories (e.g., handbags, footwear) and small luggage, struggling to replace animal leather in high-end furniture or automotive interiors. |
| Weak Environmental Adaptability | Extreme temperatures or UV exposure may accelerate aging in mushroom leather, leading to brittleness or cracking and reducing service life. |
Summary table of pros and cons of mushroom leather
| Pros | Cons |
| ✅ Sustainable & low environmental impact | ❌ Durability may lag behind animal leather |
| ✅ Ethical & cruelty-free | ❌ Higher cost |
| ✅ Versatile in texture/applications | ❌ Scalability challenges |
| ✅ Lightweight & breathable | ❌ Performance variability |
| ✅ Biodegradable | ❌ Limited market availability |
| ✅ Supports circular economy | ❌ Consumer skepticism |
Is mushroom leather good for making bag?
Yes, mushroom leather is highly suitable for making bags and is a promising and feasible material. It offers a sustainable, ethical and surprisingly durable alternative to traditional animal leather. Major luxury brands such as hermes have already adopted this technology in their products.
The advantages of making bags with mushroom leather
Environmental sustainability
Mushroom leather is made from mycelium (the root-like structure of fungi), which grows on agricultural waste such as sawdust and corn stalks. This reduces the reliance on animal skins or synthetic materials, lowers carbon emissions and resource consumption.
It is biodegradable and minimizes its environmental impact at the end of its life cycle.
Moral attraction
As a vegan alternative, it avoids the ethical issues associated with animal leather and attracts eco-conscious consumers.
The possibility of innovative design
Mycelium can be shaped into various forms and textures during its growth process, thus achieving unique designs that are difficult to realize with traditional leather.
The main disadvantages of making bags with mushroom leather
Durability issue
- Wear and tear: Mushroom leather may be more prone to scratches, tears or punctures than animal leather, especially in cases of frequent use (for example, daily commuting or travel bags).
- Heat resistance: Prolonged exposure to high temperatures (for example, in a hot climate or near heat sources) may cause its structure to deteriorate.
Waterproofing issue
Some mushroom leather recipes absorb moisture, causing swelling, deformation or mold growth, if not properly treated with a waterproof coating.
Even paints, if exposed to water for a long time, will have their integrity damaged.
Color stability
Over time, dyes may fade or bleed, especially when frequently washed or exposed to sunlight, which can affect the aesthetic appeal of the bag.
Cost and scalability
The current production methods are small in scale and high in cost, making mushroom skin bags more expensive than traditional or synthetic alternatives.
Limited availability may restrict consumers’ choices.
The types of bags suitable for mushroom leather:
- Handbags and clutch bags
- Backpack (Lightweight and durable)
- Fitness bag (Sweat and moisture resistant)
- Messenger bag
- Small accessories like wallets
Maintenance tips for mushroom leather bags
- Store in a dry place away from direct sunlight
- Use leather protector spray to enhance water resistance
- Clean with a damp cloth (avoid using irritating chemicals)
- Rotate for use to prevent excessive wear
Market application and case Studies of mushroom leather bags
1. Commercial success cases
- Mylo Driver Bag: The world’s first mushroom leather bag launched by Bolt Threads in the United States in 2018 was released on Kickstarter at a base price of $400. With only 100 units available, it sold out quickly.
- Mushmycel Collection: At SS2026 Beijing Fashion Week in 2025, the eco-friendly pioneer brand Mushmycel launched items such as mushroom leather arm bags, mushroom leather notebooks, and eco-friendly pens, showcasing the diverse applications of mushroom leather in daily necessities.
In February 2022, Lululemon launched the Mylo™ collection of bags globally, including the “Two-in-One Yoga Mat Storage Bag and Meditation Cushion” and the “Barrel Luggage Bag “, which were available in limited quantities at the Sanlitun store in Beijing and the Xintiandi store in Shanghai, China.
2. Luxury brand applications
- Stella McCartney: In 2022, it launched the Frayme handbag, the world’s first one made of Bolt Thread’s patented mycelium leather Mylo, with a retail price of £1,995.
- Hermes: Collaborating with MycoWorks to develop Sylvania mycelium material for making the classic Victoria travel bag demonstrates the application potential of mushroom leather in the high-end luxury market.
- Balenciaga: In its autumn 2022 collection, it launched a coat made of Ephea, a mushroom mycelium material, showcasing the cutting-edge application of mushroom leather in the fashion industry.
The future development trends and prospects of mushroom leather
1. Market growth potential
- Rapid growth in demand: Analysts from Infinitum Global predict that the global demand for vegan leather will grow at an annual rate of 49.9% and reach $89.6 billion by 2025.
- Technological breakthrough drive: MycoWorks’ South Carolina factory has achieved commercial-scale production. Currently, there are over ten thousand cultivation trays in the factory, and the harvest is expected within the next few weeks.
- Continuous cost decline: With technological progress and large-scale production, the production cost of mushroom leather is expected to continue to decrease, enhancing its market competitiveness.
2. Innovative application expansion
- Diversified product line: Expanded from the initial bags to multiple fields such as shoes, clothing, and home goods, with the application scope constantly broadening.
- Technological integration and innovation: By combining with other sustainable materials (such as cactus leather and pineapple leather), composite eco-friendly materials have been developed to enhance product performance.
- Circular economy model: The degradable property of mushroom leather makes it an ideal material for a circular economy. After use, it can return to nature and form a closed loop.
Conclusion
Mushroom leather is a material that is highly suitable for making fashionable bags. Although its current cost is relatively high and its water resistance and wear resistance are still slightly inferior to those of traditional leather, with technological progress, its performance is rapidly improving. As a cutting-edge material that integrates biotechnology and circular economy, mushroom leather represents an important path for the future fashion industry to transform towards low-carbon, harmless and renewable directions, and it possesses both ecological value and aesthetic potential.
If you are running your own bag business and want to customize a large number of mushroom leather bags, welcome to contact Leather Bag Factory. We are a bag manufacturer based in Guangzhou, China, and have been manufacturing mid-to-high-end leather bags since 2006.